Silks in India From Indus Valley till now

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Anupama Nair

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Bhagalpur, a small town in Bihar, which goes by the nickname ‘Silk City’ is famous for its Bhagalpuri silk sarees and the intrinsic artwork reflected is stunning, to say the least. Apart from the striking motifs and designs, the multi-colored silk threads used to weave these sarees also give them a vibrant look and feel. Kosa silk is produced in Chhattisgarh and the classic Kosa silk sarees are characterized by their dull golden hues. Apart from sarees, Kosa silk is used to make lehenga, dhoti, kurta, etc.

The most popular and renowned variety of silk produced in India is mulberry silk. The states of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, West Bengal, and Jammu and Kashmir are recognized as the main producers of this silk. Mulberry silk is known for its exquisite quality. Textiles produced from pure Mulberry silk are highly durable and attract attention due to their fine texture and lustrous sheen that can enhance the beauty of any attire designed from it. This silk is also used to create evening gowns, dress materials, fabric for furnishing, dhotis, kurtas, etc.

Banarasi silk or Benarasi silk is one of the finest variants of  mulberry silk produced in India. Primarily weaved in the holy city of Varanasi or Banaras in Uttar Pradesh, this silk attracts attention due to the zari and brocade work in gold and silver thread on the fine fabric. Benarasi silk sarees are famous all over the world for their splendor and exquisiteness.

Kanjeevaram silk or Kancheepuram silk traces its origin to the Kancheepuram town in Tamil Nadu. Made from pure mulberry silk threads, this silk is renowned for its strength, lustrous shine, and grandeur. Kanjeevaram silk sarees are among the most popular silk sarees in the world. With its rich hues, captivating broad borders, and enthralling designs, this silk has been enhancing the beauty of Indian women for a long. The specialty of this saree is that the border and the body are woven separately and joined later.

The Baluchari Silk derives its name from the Baluchar village, where this rich weaving tradition originated more than 200 years ago. The unique feature of a Baluchari silk saree is the elaborate representation of religious scenes on its “pallu” and borders with silk threads.

Chanderi, a small town in Madhya Pradesh is famous for Chanderi silks. The traditional Chanderi silk sarees and dress material, entice wearers with their amazing texture, luxurious feel, lightweight, and soft pastel hues.

Mysore silk from Karnataka is known for its radiance, durability, and non-crush quality. The most distinctive feature of Mysore silk sarees is the pure gold zari work done on the single-toned sarees with golden borders. Mysore silk is used to create lovely silk stoles, shawls, kurtis, dhotis, scarfs, and pyjama kurtas.

Originating from the city of Dharmavaram in the Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh, this rich ethnic silk is known for its brocaded gold designs. Dharmavaram sarees with their intrinsically woven broad borders and shaded pallus have traditional motifs adorning the body of the attire. Paavadas or lehengas are also made from this silk. Kuchipudi and Bharat Natyam dancers mostly use this silk for their dance attires.

Pochampalli silk sarees are renowned for the intricate motifs and amazing designs reflected on the fine Pochampalli fabric through ikat style of dyeing. It is the exceptional blend of silk and cotton along with the bright colors that make these sarees truly unique.

Garad silk sarees are distinguished by their red borders and plain white or off-white body. Made in Murshidabad in West Bengal, Garad silk sarees are known for their unique texture resembling a tissue paper and light weight. This silk is made from Mulberry or Tasar silk yarns. To maintain the natural color, the yarns are not dyed. Weaved from pure silk, the Kota silk sarees are a distinct produce of Rajasthan. These sarees are distinguished by their square-like patterns, vibrant colors, fine weave, and light weight.

From the coastal land of Odisha or Orissa comes the lovely Ikat silk sarees. This weave is created using a tie and dye method which lends the saree its unique look and feel. Typical design motifs on an Ikat silk include animals, birds, fish, beads of rudraksha, temple tops, and geometric patterns. A remarkable feature of this saree is that it reflects the same colorful motifs and patterns on both sides.

Evolved from a white muslin cloth outfit Chikankari sarees are now, using variety of fabrics with a colorful palette. This Chikankari embroidery similar to kurtas is famous for its diverse effects created using different types of thread and stitches. The delicate embroidery work artfully done by experienced craftsmen is the pure definition of finesse and magnificence.

With thick and a glossy gold border, the “kasavu” sarees are famous in the state of Kerala, and are worn on every important religious ceremonies, like Onam and Vishu. They are now popular all over India.

Thus, it can be seen almost all states of India produces its own silk material.

 

 

 

 

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